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Anchor Archer

Today I finished my first Archer. I saw them popping up on blogs for a long time now and always planned on making one. I do wear button-ups a lot, mostly in some kind of plaid. Somehow I never got around actually purchasing the pattern and get started. A few weeks ago I found this wonderful printed chambray and orderd 2 yards. I don´t know exactly what drew me to this fabric, as I´m usually not the nautical kind of a girl.

I made a couple of changes on the pattern though. I cut out size 0 but graded to a size 2 on the hipline. I pretty much ignored the instructions and just went along like I always sew button up shirts. But I did try out this tutorial for putting in a collar. It worked great and I´ll use this method from now on as it´s a lot easier!

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I exchanged the placket for the one in the Tyler shirt because looks much more sophisticated that way. I love the angled corners on the cuff! I cut the fabric for the cuff on the bias, as the button band, the pocket and the back yoke to break up the pattern of the anchors.

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I´m very proud how the anchors line up. Usually I´m too lazy to bother with this  and avoid fabric pattern where I have to do it. But it looks really good and looks very tailored 🙂

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I made a smaller pocket as the original one looked ridiculouslly big. I never use these pockets, they´re only for decoration 🙂

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I really like my first Archer, there are more to come in the future. I´m planning on making a flannel plaid one. The summer here in Vienna surely calls for one.

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Posted by on August 12, 2014 in Everyday clothing

 

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Vintage nightgown comes back to life

A few months ago my grandmother passed a nightgown on to me, which she got from her boss when she worked as a maid for a family. The nightgown, as beautiful as it was, was already falling apart. Almost all the seams where ripped and the gown had holes in various places. It was made out of a delicate silk crepe de chine, so my grandmother asked me to make something for myself out of it because it would be a waste to just let it rot in the attic. Challenge accepted!

The white colour was already turning yellowish and on a few places you could make out tiny faded lilac dots.

The constructions was quite simple. Basically it was just made out of two reactangles with holes for the arms and a neckline with a facing and a collar. On the waist it has ties to bring it in shape. Due to the construction I guess that the nightgown is from the 1920s (anyone has a different guess?) Sorry for the fuzzy picture!

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As you can see, the gown was already fixed a couple of times, espaccially on the front of the neckline. After two turns in the washing machine with the silk programm the yellow tone faded and it got a nice off-white colour to it now.

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It took me a long time to get myself to cut it. I was terrified of messing it up! But when I got my Alma blouse pattern in the mail, I finally kicked myself in the butt and started.

 

The pattern pieces JUST fit on the nightgown with avoiding the damages of the fabric. So no spare fabric for messing anything up. I made view A without the ties without any size alteration. But I did leave out the side zipper. After a lot of pondering over it I decided I didn´t want the zipperband peak through the sheer fabric. I tried it out and I can wiggle myself in without much effort. I did french seams, so that no seam finishing would shine through and avoid the delicate look of the blouse.

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I´m very happy how it turned out and can´t wait to show my grandmother! She´ll be very pleased, but she´s always pleased with whatever I make – evening gown or pyjama.

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The Alma blouse is very comfortable to wear, I like it a lot! It feels a little fancy but still casual enough to wear it with jeans or a mini skirt. There´ll be more to come for sure! Sometimes I wish I had a job where I can dress up a little. A white silk blouse for a day in kindergarten is probably not a good idea 🙂

 
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Posted by on August 4, 2014 in Everyday clothing

 

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Prom dress – quick lookback

Do you remember the prom dress I made last month?

The girl got voted promqueen 😀 Although I didn´t know that we do that in Austria…

 

I didn´t get any pictures of the prom itself so far, I only have one more for you, from the final dress rehersal. My sister told me that she loves her dress, so I´m happy 🙂

I think I need a dress like this for myself, I like the classy feel of it…

 

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Posted by on June 26, 2014 in Uncategorized

 

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Here comes the bride

Today was the wedding. The wheaterforecas wasn´t so positive but it stayed very nice and sunny during the ceremony. It was set in the vineyard of one of the hills around Vienna. You could see the whole town behind the bride and groom.

But let´s start at the beginning. We were led to the vineyard and sat down on green wooden benches, facing the (nervous) groom. Then a musician started to play the zither, a traditional austrian instrument. With this, the bride walked towards us with her father. She looked so amazingly beautiful, the dress was perfect for her!

After the ceremony the flowergirls blew soap bubbles which looked totally awesome!

Without further ado, the bride:

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With this, I close the wedding dress project very happy and satisfied and yes, proud!

 
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Posted by on June 14, 2014 in Uncategorized

 

Finishing touches on the wedding dress (picture heavy!)

After finally completing the lining of the dress, I was able to start with the hemming and embellishing.

After the last fitting with the wedding shoes I shortened the dress 6cm, thenI cut out the lining 8cm shorter and without seam allowence in the hem. When I turned the hem two times 1cm, I encased the lining in the main fabric.

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Now it was time to handstitch an invisible hem. I didn´t want the seam to be visible on the outside, even though there´s a layer of lace over it. It just looks tidier and more exquisite this way.

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Next on was the lace. I  sewed it on with tiny hand stitches, hidden in the floral pattern of the lace. With the 6m of (6,6 yards) hem circumference it took forever. Yesterday I just could´nt stop myself. With every inch carefully pinned and sewed on the silk I was getting more excited. So I finished the whole lace trim until it was well past my regular bedtime.

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So, now the dress itself is finished! I can honestly say, it´s the most beautiful thing I´ve ever sewn. But see for yourself:

 

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I hope I can add bride-in-gown pictures after the wedding 🙂

 

 
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Posted by on May 30, 2014 in Fancy, Wedding

 

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Prom dress (I feel old)

A few weeks back my sister told me, that my former babysitter-kid needs a prom dress. My first thought was “Prom dress? God, I´m old!!”. The girls has grown up now to this beautiful 15-year old who is going to a prom soon. So I got to work and made her a dress.

She bought the fabrics herself, a dark red lining taffeta, a black duchesse and a wonderful burgundy fabric, for which I don´t know the englisch name. In german it´s called a Borkencrepe. It´s sheer like chiffon but creped and with a little more grip and structure. It´s made out of viscose.

For the pattern I used McCalls6893 in the smallest size and needed to take in a few cm at the waist for her hourglass figure. After making the mousseline I started the real dress yesterday in the evening. The measurement chart was far off, according to it I would have had to make it 2 sizes larger.

For the boning I used my spiral steel from corset making. I never use plastic boning as it tends to deform or crack and never gives the support a spiral steel can give you. I put boning in the front side seams and the back side seams. I always have the problems that the caps of the boning tend to slide of, so I dipped the ends in liquid gum, the kind you use for isolating cables.

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For the casing I used bias tape, so it follows the curve of the front seams.

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I made french seams for all the skirt seams, so it won´t show any serged seams when she´s dancing and twirling:

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The bodice got an underlining out of the lining fabric with the addition of iron on interfacing. I hand basted the viscose parts to the underlining and used them as one layer.

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The dress got a 6cm sash on the waistline with an attachable bow, so she can wear the bow on the side or on the back. This picture captures the colour best.

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The dress came together suprisingly fast and it was fun to make. Other than the weird mearsurement chart everything came together nicely. I hope she has a blast wearing it to the prom 🙂

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Posted by on May 1, 2014 in Fancy

 

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Sewing saturday

Today I was very productive. I cut out the Newcastle cardigan pattern for my husband and finished my Movies in the park shorts. I love the cut of the short with the contrast bias tape and the buttons. Buttons make everthing prettier. I somehow messed up the measurements. I cut out a size M but had to take in 8cm on both sides and they´re still a little loose. Next time, there´ll definitley be a next time, I´ll size down to XS, then it should be fine. The buttons are from my stash, I bought them in the US last year, they´re so beautiful! The fabric is a leftover from pants I made laset winter. So, without further ado, I present you my new shorts:

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During the week I finished some more baby clothes for my friend. The faux wrap shirt is Trotzkopf and so cute. I made the pattern for the hats myself, so I could use a lot of fabric scraps ( I got them from a nice mom at work 🙂 )

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Posted by on April 26, 2014 in Baby stuff, Everyday clothing

 

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